How To Hike The Peaks Of The Balkans Trail (In-Depth Guide)

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Looking to hike the Peaks of the Balkans trail in Europe?

Then you’re in the right place!

I’ve just returned from a 10-day trek along this stunning Western Balkans hiking route, which takes you through the stunning Accursed Mountains and crosses the border between Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro numerous times.

The Peaks of the Balkans was created to promote peace and friendship between these three countries. During the hike, you’ll immerse yourself in local culture and visit remote villages that are hard to reach by car, like Doberdol (Albania), Deçan (Kosovo), and Vusanje (Montenegro).

But, how do you plan a trip to trek the Peaks of the Balkans trail?

Keep reading for the full breakdown, including planning tips, accommodation suggestions, a packing list, a day-by-day itinerary, and more!

🥾 Quick Facts:
Length: 192 km (119 mi), usually 10 days
Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous
Permit: Required — apply at least 2 weeks ahead
Best time: June–September
Safety: Install an eSIM on your phone & consider a Global Rescue membership
Recommended guide: Wilderness Balkans

What Is The Peaks Of The Balkans Trail?

The Peaks of the Balkans trail is a 192-kilometer circular trekking route through the remote mountain regions of northern Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro.

Developed in the early 2010s to promote sustainable tourism and cross-border cooperation after years of regional conflict, the trail links traditional shepherd villages and dramatic highland landscapes.

It crosses the Accursed Mountains (also known as the Albanian Alps), showcasing rugged peaks, glacial valleys, and local culture.

In my opinion, what makes it special is the chance to experience local life in some of Europe’s most isolated areas while hiking through scenery that feels truly untouched. It’s one of the world’s most beautiful hikes, offering an experience you’ll never forget!

This short video gives you a quick glimpse into some of the scenery you can expect to see along the way:

Peaks Of The Balkans Trail Map & Overview

Because it’s circular, you can start from wherever you’d like. My Balkans itinerary at a glance was:

Pre-Trek:

  • Tirana, Albania
  • Shkodër, Albania

Trek:

  • Valbona, Albania
  • Çerem, Albania
  • Doberdol, Albania
  • Deçan, Kosovo
  • Babino Polje, Montenegro
  • Vusanje, Montenegro
  • Theth, Albania

Post-Trek:

  • Shkodër, Albania
  • Tirana, Albania

➡ Click here for a virtual Peaks of the Balkans trail map and click here to purchase a physical trail map.

🎁 Grab access to my free Travel Planning Toolkit for a Google Map with the stops in this guide pre-plotted.

map of the Peaks of the Balkans trail
Peaks of the Balkans trail map. You’ll see these numerous times along the route. Photo via Jessie Festa.

Peaks Of The Balkans Logistics

Starting point & how to get there

Many trekkers begin in Shkodër, a city in northwestern Albania. It’s about 90 minutes from Tirana International Airport (TIA) in Albania, which is where you’ll likely fly into.

From Shkodër, you’ll need to get to the trailhead. Because I went with a guide, they arranged this; however, if going on your own, you would:

  • 1) Catch a bus at 6:45am from Shkodër to Koman (8€/person), where you will board the Koman–Fierze ferry at 9am (9€/person). The bus should get you there at around 8:30am. You can purchase both bus and ferry tickets here.

You can also take a private taxi, but expect to pay closer to 75€.

2) Travel via ferry to Fierze. The ride takes a little less than 3 hours and is extremely scenic.

3) In Fierze, grab one of the taxis or minibusses waiting at the ferry landing to Valbona Valley National Park, where the trailhead is. The ride is about 45–60 minutes. You can also ask your guesthouse in Shkodër to help you pre-arrange a driver for this leg.

View from the Lake Koman ferry showing deep green water winding between steep rocky cliffs covered with trees, with distant mountains under a bright blue sky.
Views from the Lake Koman ferry. Photo via Jessie Festa.

Trail length

The full Peaks of the Balkans trail is 192 kilometers (119 miles), typically done within 10 days, but you can do less by removing some stops or booking transfers for sections that are along a car road. For instance, this tour offers a 5-day trek.

The itinerary outlined below includes about 106 kilometers (66 miles) of hiking.

Trail difficulty

Moderate to strenuous. There are certainly very challenging sections, but overall, if you’re a regular hiker, you’ll have no problem with this trail, especially as there are opportunities to modify the route if needed.

Hiking safety

While the trail is well-marked, if going on your own, make sure to have an eSIM installed and a paper trail map so you don’t get lost.

Also, whether you’re going with a guide or on your own, I recommend getting a Global Rescue membership so that you can get a rescue or evacuation if you get injured. Since many areas along the trail don’t have cell service, you’ll also want to get a satellite communicator, like the Garmin InReach Mini 2.

A brown and white horse standing in a grassy field in Theth, Albania, with rugged green mountains and traditional houses in the background under a clear blue sky.
Horses and views in Theth, Albania. Photo via Jessie Festa.

Trail permit

You will need a permit to hike the Peaks of the Balkans trail. If you’re going with a company, they will likely secure this for you. If you’re hiking on your own, you’ll need to contact the local authorities at least two weeks in advance:

  • Albanian Police: ferdinant.gjeta@asp.gov.al
  • Kosovo Police: pashuk.pepaj@kosovopolice.com

Make sure to carry a printed copy of your permit with you while hiking.

Best time to trek

The best time to do the Peaks of the Balkans trek is June through September, when the weather is warm and the trails are lined with wildflowers.

During winter, parts of the trails are closed, and some of the settlements close for the season so it can be much more challenging, and potentially not possible at all in some areas, to find accommodation.

  • Personally, I did the trek in late June and loved it!
A colorful field of bright yellow wildflowers on a grassy hillside with hikers in the distance and the dramatic Peaks of the Balkans mountain range under a blue sky with fluffy clouds.
Wildflowers along the trail while hiking in summer. Photo via Jessie Festa.

Drinking water

In the cities of Tirana and Shkodër, I stuck to bottled water; however, during the hike, it was possible to drink from the tap.

Many hikers also drank from the mountain streams, but I wouldn’t do this without using a filter like the LifeStraw Go bottle or LifeStraw Water Filter Straw.

Trek costs to budget for

Along the trail:

  • Accommodation costs about 45€ per person per night (based on double occupancy).
  • Food is included in your accommodation price (family-style breakfast and dinner as well as a picnic lunch).
  • Drinks like soda, beer, and wine cost about 2-2.50€ (aside from Doberdol, where they charged closer to 5€ for a glass of wine).

If you go with a tour operator like Wilderness Balkans, you’ll pay upfront for them to sort out all logistics, so you won’t need to carry much cash. The only thing I spent money on during the trek was drinks and tips. There are also family-run cafes along the trail where you can stop for refreshments.

Trail highlights

  • Taking in stunning views of colorful wildflowers and the Accursed Mountains (aka the Albanian Alps when you’re in Albania)
  • Staying in remote village guesthouses and getting to see local life up close
  • Summiting multiple peaks, including the Three Borders Peak where all three country borders meet
Female hiker in a purple tank top standing on a rocky summit with sweeping green mountain ridges in the background at Three Border Peak on the Peaks of the Balkans trail.
View from the Three Borders Peak. Photo via Jessie Festa.

Notable peaks along the way

  • Maja Jezercë (2,694 m). The highest peak in the Albanian Alps, visible from Theth and Valbona, though usually not summited on the classic circuit.
  • Zla Kolata (2,534 m). The highest peak in Montenegro, often included as an optional summit between Valbona and Çerem.
  • Gjeravica (2,656 m). The highest peak in Kosovo, frequently climbed on the day from Doberdol, after crossing from Albania into Kosovo.
  • Maja e Arapit (2,217 m). Often called the Matterhorn of Albania thanks to its dramatic sheer cliffs and pyramidal shape.
  • Three Border Peak (2,354 m). This is a popular summit along the Peaks of the Balkans trail as it’s where Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro meet.
  • Mount Talijanka (2,057 m) and Mount Popadija (2,056 m). Located in the Grbaja Valley, these adjacent peaks offer incredible views of dolomite massifs.
  • Maja e Popluks (2,569 m). An imposing peak that rises above Theth.

Hardest day

Valbona to Çerem, especially if you also choose to summit Zla Kolata—the highest peak in Montenegro at 2,535 meters (8,317 feet)! Even without summiting, this will be the hardest day of the hike.

A man riding a white horse along a rocky trail surrounded by lush green vegetation and wildflowers in the Peaks of the Balkans, with forested slopes and distant mountains under a clear blue sky.
Along with beautiful views, you’ll meet locals while hiking the Peaks of the Balkans. Photo via Jessie Festa.

Guided vs Self-Guided Trekking

You can hike the Peaks of the Balkans on your own or with a guide. Personally, I went with Wilderness Balkans and was very happy with my decision. This allowed me to simply show up and enjoy the hike while they handled logistics.

The total cost was 1,250€ for a small group tour with a maximum of 12 people, though we only had six. This included all accommodation, food, entrance fees, permits, transfers, and luggage transfers—basically everything besides drinks, souvenirs, and tips.

That being said, I saw many solo hikers or groups of friends doing this trek fully self-guided and enjoying the experience, especially since the hike is very social and you’ll encounter many other trekkers along the way.

Just know that doing it on your own will require a lot of extra planning and booking.

A rustic family-run coffee house along the Peaks of the Balkans trail, with two simple wooden cabins, laundry drying on a fence, and a man preparing something outside, surrounded by lush green meadows and forested hills.
Along the trek, there are many family-run coffee houses to stop for a drink. Photo via Jessie Festa.

Where To Stay During The Peaks Of The Balkans Trek

The guesthouses along the Peaks of the Balkans trail were very comfortable. Only two accommodations had shared bathrooms, and one of those was only with a handful of people. Here is a quick look at the places I stayed:

I also spent a few nights in the cities of Tirana and Shkodër before and after the trek. My hotels for these included:

Woman standing on a wooden balcony at Bujtina Polia guesthouse in Theth, Albania, overlooking green pastures and dramatic mountain peaks in the distance.
Enjoying the view from Bujtina Polia in Theth. Photo via Jessie Festa.

10-Day Peaks Of The Balkans Itinerary (In-Depth)

Now that we’ve gone over the important logistics of this Balkans trek, let’s go over an in-depth itinerary so you can truly see what the hike is like.

This itinerary includes a slightly shorter version of the trek, with a little less time in Kosovo. You’ll spend eight days trekking and two days sightseeing, with an optional bonus day for additional adventure activities in Theth.

📍Tirana, Albania (Pre-Trek)

Duration: 2 nights
Hotel: Enzo Hotel & Apartments offers a clean, budget-friendly stay in the trendy Blloku District, with in-room WiFi, air conditioning, blackout curtains, and a rain shower. For coffee or quick bites, plenty of great cafés are within a 10-minute walk.
Tours: Click here for a list of top-rated Tirana tours

Tirana, Albania’s capital and largest city, is likely where you’ll land. It’s worth spending a day or two here to acclimate and explore.

Base yourself in the Blloku District, once reserved for Communist elites but now packed with trendy restaurants, bars, boutiques, and cafes.

Top sights include the Pyramid of Tirana, a communist-era structure turned viewpoint, and museums like Bunk’Art 2 and the National Historical Museum.

View from the Pyramid of Tirana showing modern high-rise buildings, tree-lined streets, and mountains in the distance under a blue sky with scattered clouds. Ask ChatGPT
View from the Pyramid of Tirana. Photo via Jessie Festa.

If you want to stretch your legs before the trek, consider a day trip to Bovilla Lake and Gamti Mountain for incredible lake views.

For a tasty, budget-friendly carb load before hitting the trail, Fresh Garden Restaurant serves great pasta and pizza in a cozy atmosphere.

📍Shkodër, Albania (Pre-Trek)

Duration: 1 night
Hotel: Hotel Tradita sits in a beautifully preserved 400-year-old house filled with Albanian folk art and traditional decor. The central courtyard is a nice place to relax or enjoy the hotel’s plentiful family-style dinners featuring local dishes (the local trout is especially delicious!).
Tours: Click here for a list of top-rated Shkodër tours

Shkodër is one of Albania’s oldest cities, known for its relaxed vibe and scenic setting along Lake Shkodër, framed by rivers and mountains.

As the gateway to the Albanian Alps, it makes an ideal stop before starting your trek.

A highlight is Rozafa Castle, perched on a rocky hill above the confluence of the Buna, Drin, and Kir rivers.

Woman standing on the stone walls of Rozafa Castle in Shkodër, Albania, smiling with panoramic views of rivers, green farmland, and hills in the background.
View from Rozafa Castle. Photo via Jessie Festa.

Originally an Illyrian fortress later rebuilt by the Venetians, it has withstood centuries of battles and offers sweeping views of the surrounding landscape.

After exploring, enjoy a meal on Rruga Kolë Idromeno, a pedestrian street lined with bars, shops, and restaurants. I recommend Country Club Bar & Grill, which—despite its name—serves excellent Italian dishes in a cute outdoor setting.

📍Valbona Valley, Albania

Duration: 1 night
Hiking Distance: 7 kilometers
Ascent: 250 meters
Descent: 50 meters
Highlights: Views over Koman Lake, hiking along a crystal river, and visiting a waterfall.
Hotel: Neo Kulla Hikers Hive has clean, comfortable rooms with spectacular views of the Accursed Mountains from balconies and the patio. Expect a delicious feast for dinner, warm hospitality, and a chance to sample local Albanian wine or herbal teas made with wild marjoram.

Today, the trek officially begins, but you’ll need to reach the starting point first. The drive from Shkodër to the Valbona Valley offers stunning mountain and river views the entire way.

To shorten the trip, you’ll board the Koman–Fierze ferry for a spectacular cruise through the emerald waters of Koman Lake surrounded by towering cliffs and narrow gorges.

Once off the boat, we drive about 25 minutes to Restaurant Fisniku in Bajram Curri—the last major town before entering Valbona Valley National Park.

From there, it’s about 25 more minutes by car to reach the start of the Peaks of the Balkans trek in the Valbona Valley, which feels remote and untouched. Towering peaks rise on all sides, framing a valley of wildflowers, stone houses, and icy blue rivers.

Woman sitting on a moss-covered boulder pointing toward a small cascading waterfall surrounded by lush forest in Valbona Valley, Albania. Ask ChatGPT
Finding a waterfall while hiking in the Valbona Valley. Photo via Jessie Festa.

Walking through the forest, we pass wild juniper, rosemary, chamomile, and tiny alpine strawberries—plants locals have long used for food, medicine, and even building materials.

For most of the trail, the route follows the crystal-clear Valbona River. At one point, there’s even a waterfall and a swimming hole. I couldn’t resist dipping my toes in, but it was icy cold!

As the path winds through shady forest and rocky sections, keep your eyes peeled for a moss-covered Cold War bunker slowly being reclaimed by the forest. You’ll see a few of these along the Peaks of the Balkans trail.

Eventually, a clearing reveals jaw-dropping views of the jagged Accursed Mountains. These continue the entire way to Neo Kulla Hikers Hive, where the views continue from the property.

Woman standing on a wooden balcony looking out at dramatic snow-capped peaks and green forested slopes from Neo Kulla Hikers Hive in Valbona Valley, Albania.
View from my balcony at Neo Kulla Hikers Hive. Photo via Jessie Festa.

📍Çerem, Albania

Duration: 1 night
Hiking Distance: 16 kilometers
Ascent: 1100 meters
Descent: 1000 meters
Highlights: Views of snow-topped peaks, the chance to summit Zla Kolata, and stopping for drinks at a local home along the hike.
Hotel: Vita Guesthouse is a simple, clean, family-run place with private rooms with shared bathrooms in the main house and cozy A-frame cabins outside. Gorgeous mountain views and plentiful, high-quality homemade meals make for a welcoming stay where you truly feel cared for.

Today is the hardest day of the trek, covering 16 kilometers via the Prejsllopi Pass to Çerem, a remote village surrounded by alpine meadows, stone houses, and traditional shepherd huts.

The challenge isn’t the distance so much as the rough terrain, with steep ascents and descents. The rocky climb begins right away, pushing our legs from the first steps.

Up and up we go, over thick-cut rock and giant boulders. At times, the trail leads through shady forest before emerging into clearings with stunning mountain views. It’s tough, but constant glimpses of snowy peaks help keep spirits high.

Hiker resting on a rock while admiring dramatic mountain views along the Valbona to Çerem section of the Peaks of the Balkans trail.
Beautiful views along the Prejsllopi Pass trail. Photo via Jessie Festa.

There are plenty of viewpoints to pause for a snack or snap a photo. One highlight is a field lush with white flowers, perfectly framing Zla Kolata—Montenegro’s highest peak—in the distance.

The trail continues along rocky ridgelines and grassy slopes, crossing from Albania into Montenegro and then back again.

At one point, there’s an ice cave, a welcome chilly retreat from the scorching summer sun.

Another memorable stop is a family-run tea house. Laundry billows in the yard while a white horse grazes nearby, and we sit at picnic tables enjoying Turkish coffee and Coca-Cola. The family kindly refills our water bottles for free.

After a knee-killing 900-meter descent (my legs were on fire!), we finally reach Çerem and our accommodation for the night, Vita Guesthouse.

Three modern black A-frame cabins at Vita Guesthouse in Çerem, Albania, with dramatic green mountains and blue sky in the background along the Peaks of the Balkans trail.
Beautiful views from Vita Guesthouse. Photo via Jessie Festa.

📍Doberdol, Albania

Duration: 1 night
Hiking Distance: 16 kilometers
Ascent: 1,100 meters
Descent: 650 meters
Highlights: Rocky scenery switching to alpine landscapes, a coffee stop with a view, and staying overnight in one of the most remote places in the Balkans.
Hotel: Leonardi Guesthouse sits at 5,780 feet and offers A-frame cabins, camping, and hostel-style dorms. It’s a social hub with a full bar and incredible views—the perfect place to mingle with fellow hikers. Just note that bathrooms are shared with everyone (as is the case everywhere in Doberdol).

Today’s trek to Doberdol—one of the world’s most remote villages—includes scenic but steep ascents and descents through the stunning Gashi River Nature Reserve.

I’ve learned from yesterday and brought my knee compression sleeve for today! 😅

The first hour is a real calf-killer, with a relentless uphill that defines “Type 2 Fun.” Finally, we hit a car road for a brief break from the pain.

That’s the theme for most of the day: steep climbs mixed with gentler, scenic stretches. While yesterday’s views were mostly rocky peaks, today brings lush alpine slopes dotted with trees and meadows bursting with wildflowers.

Remote shepherd huts and green alpine pastures along the hike to Doberdol, with dramatic mountain views on the Peaks of the Balkans trail.
Beautiful views along the hike to Doberdol. Photo via Jessie Festa.

After a picnic lunch and a tea break with a view at Guest House Balçina (highly recommended!), the trail continues along the slopes of the Shkelzen Massif in the Albanian Alps. This is where the scenery goes next level, with 360-degree alpine views.

Outside of a shaded uphill climb through the forest, those vistas stay with us almost the entire way to Doberdol, where we check in to Leonardi Guesthouse for the night.

A-frame wooden cabins at Leonardi Guesthouse in Doberdol, surrounded by lush green meadows and mountains on the Peaks of the Balkans trail.
Views from Leonardi Guesthouse. Photo via Jessie Festa.

📍Deçan, Kosovo

Duration: 1 night
Hiking Distance: 16 kilometers
Ascent: 900
Descent: 900
Highlights: Swimming in Love Heart Lake, as well as summiting Gjeravica and taking in endless mountain views from the top.
Hotel: Gacaferi Guesthouse—run by our guide Adriatik’s family—has a warm, social vibe with gorgeous mountain views. Share a beer or soda with fellow hikers in the cozy living room or on the outdoor deck. Dinner is a plentiful buffet of local dishes cooked by Adriatik’s mom, followed by coffee or mountain fruit tea. At sunset, the mountains light up in shades of orange and pink.

Today’s section of the Peaks of the Balkans trek is especially stunning, with a mix of idyllic alpine landscapes. The main objective is summiting Gjeravica, Kosovo’s highest recognized peak at 2,656 meters.

We begin hiking out of Doberdol along a river, passing small wooden homes, grazing horses, and cows. Before long, we’re climbing rocky trails and dirt paths winding through wide-open alpine scenery.

Emerging over a mountain pass, we come to the Albania–Kosovo border, a memorable milestone with epic views of dramatic ridges and forested valleys stretching under a clear blue sky.

From here, the route weaves up and down, crossing ridgelines and patches of dirt, rock, and even snow. After about four kilometers (2.5 miles), we reach Love Heart Lake—shaped exactly like a heart if seen from above. It’s a perfect spot for a (very chilly) swim if you’re feeling brave.

View of the heart-shaped Love Heart Lake surrounded by rugged alpine peaks and grassy valleys along the Peaks of the Balkans trail.
View of Love Heart Lake. Photo via Jessie Festa.

The climb continues, working those calves and thighs. Hiking along the mountainside, I keep thinking the view can’t get any better—but it does.

The final stretch is a grind, but the reward is breathtaking: 360-degree views of countless jagged peaks.

Standing atop Gjeravica feels like gazing out over a sea of mountains, one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen.

Hiker and a dog sitting on a rocky summit, overlooking alpine lakes and rugged mountain ranges from Gjeravica, the highest peak in Kosovo.
View from Gjeravica, the highest peak in Kosovo, and I made a furry friend! Photo via Jessie Festa.

From there, it’s on to Deçan, a small town tucked beneath the Accursed Mountains.

The mostly downhill route is hard on the knees but winds through scenic meadows, wildflowers, and pine-dotted hills until finally reaching Gacaferi Guesthouse for the night.

A relaxed dog lying on a stone terrace at Gacaferi Guesthouse in Kosovo, with guests dining nearby and a forested mountain in the background. Ask ChatGPT
Relaxing on the Gacaferi Guesthouse patio. Photo via Jessie Festa.

📍Babino Polje, Montenegro

Duration: 1 night
Hiking Distance: 15 kilometers
Ascent: 600 meters
Descent: 1,000 meters
Highlights: Summit the Three Border Peak, hiking through fields of wildflowers, and swimming in Hrid Lake.
Hotel: “HRID” Eco Mountaineering Village offers cozy wooden cabins with private bathrooms right by the river, perfect for relaxing with a cold drink (BYOB) after a long hike. The food is a highlight, with plentiful dinners including salads, veggies, rice, potatoes, bread, meat dishes, and even vegetarian options like soy patties.

Today’s trek—including the summit of the Three Border Peak, where Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro meet—starts with a steady uphill climb.

The guesthouse grows smaller and smaller behind us as we zigzag up the lush green hillside, accompanied by birdsong and babbling streams. As we ascend, mountain views surround us on all sides.

After a short break beside a peaceful lake, we continue toward the summit, eventually cresting the spine of the hillside at 2,351 meters above sea level. The 360-degree views from the top are absolutely stunning—endless peaks that seem to roll on like ocean waves.

Hiker standing on a rocky trail with sweeping green mountain ridges and valleys in the distance, enjoying panoramic views from Three Border Peak on the Peaks of the Balkans trail.
Three Border Peak views. Photo via Jessie Festa.

On the descent (which still includes some uphill sections), we cross lush rolling hills, fields of wildflowers, and massive rocky slopes.

Finally, after a short rock scramble, we reach Hrid Lake, also known as the “Lake of Happiness,” and take a swim in its cool, crystal-clear waters.

From there, a moderate woodland trail brings us to our guesthouse for the night in the quiet village of Babino Polje.

Scenic view of Hrid Lake with clear water, rocky shoreline, and surrounding pine forest under a blue sky, along the Peaks of the Balkans trail.
Going for a swim at Hrid Lake. Photo via Jessie Festa.

📍Vusanje (via Plav), Montenegro

Duration: 1 night
Hiking Distance: 15 kilometers
Ascent: 850 meters
Descent: 850 meters
Highlights: Summiting two peaks—Mount Taljanka and Mount Papadilla—and taking in views of epic dolomite massifs (the most stunning view of the whole Peaks of the Balkans hike!).
Hotel: Moonlight House has clean, comfortable rooms and great showers, plus incredible views of the Prokletije National Park peaks from the outdoor patio. Grab a beer or wine from the honor bar to unwind before enjoying dinner with a view.

Today begins with a short side trip by car to Plav, a charming lakeside town surrounded by mountains. While certainly still relaxed, it feels more bustling than anywhere else we’ve been along the trek, with grocery stores, cafes, and shops lining its streets.

After grabbing snacks and a coffee, we visit Kula Redzepagica, a beautifully preserved Ottoman-era tower house that once served as both a residence and a defensive fortification.

Traditional interior of Kula Redzepagica in Plav, Montenegro, showcasing embroidered textiles, antique clocks, copper dishes, and colorful carpets inside this Ottoman-era tower house, visited as a side trip during the Peaks of the Balkans trail.
A room inside Kula Redzepagica. Photo via Jessie Festa.

From there, we drive to the trailhead for today’s hike in Montenegro’s Grbaja Valley, part of Prokletije National Park. This is easily one of the most beautiful places in the Balkans—maybe even the world—home to more than 20 peaks above 2,400 meters.

Without a doubt, today is my favorite day of the Peaks of the Balkans trek, thanks to both the personal challenge and the jaw-dropping views.

We start down in the valley, gazing up at the landscape known as the “Yosemite of the Balkans.” From there, we head into the forest on a relatively gradual, shady climb.

Dramatic limestone peaks rising above lush green forests and grassy meadows in the Grbaja Valley of Prokletije National Park, Montenegro, known as the “Yosemite of the Balkans” along the Peaks of the Balkans trail.
Yosemite of the Balkans. Photo via Jessie Festa.

Once we emerge into the bright sun, though, the uphill becomes much tougher. The trail winds through a wide grassy valley scattered with wildflowers and rocky outcroppings, climbing steadily toward cliffs streaked with white stone.

The ascent is intense, but eventually, we reach the summit of Mount Talijanka at 2,057 meters.

Looking one way, the Dolomite-like stone spires and sheer walls stand almost sculpted by hand—hence the nickname “Dolomites of the Balkans.”

Hiker sitting on a cliff edge overlooking dramatic jagged limestone peaks nicknamed the “Dolomites of the Balkans” in Prokletije National Park.
Gorgeous views over the Dolomites of the Balkans. Photo via Jessie Festa.

Looking the other way, endless rolling mountains stretch toward Albania’s Kelmend region, a patchwork of rugged valleys, forests, and highland villages.

Our next summit, Mount Popadija, is just a 15-minute walk further, reached by cresting the border between Montenegro and Albania.

From its peak, you can look back at the dramatic massifs behind you, or ahead to green ridges dotted with meadows and rocky patches.

A hiker walks along a narrow grassy ridge trail on Mount Popadija with dramatic rocky peaks of the Accursed Mountains in the distance under a partly cloudy blue sky.
Beautiful view from Mount Popadija. Photo via Jessie Festa.

The descent is steep, with plenty of loose sand and shale—a true knee-buster over 850 meters down. Thankfully, the stunning views and wildflowers distract me from the pain.

At the bottom, a car waits to transfer us to our guesthouse, Moonlight House, in Vusanje for the night.

📍Theth, Albania

Duration: 1 night
Hiking Distance: 15 kilometers
Ascent: 600 meters
Descent: 900 meters
Highlights: Crossing the border from Montenegro to Albania and seeing stunning rock formations—including the “Matterhorn of Albania.”
Hotel: Bujtina Polia features clean, comfortable rooms, but the real highlight is the mountain views from the wrap-around porch. Enjoy beer, wine, or soft drinks while taking in the scenery, and don’t miss the restaurant’s homemade sparkling wine and olive oil served with delicious local dishes.

Today starts with a short transfer—and plenty of off-roading—from our guesthouse to the trailhead. We’ll be hiking 13 kilometers, crossing the border from Montenegro into Albania to reach the lively mountain village of Theth.

This border crossing is also where we move from Prokletije National Park to Theth National Park. The hike begins gently, with the trail winding through a wide, rocky valley surrounded by towering limestone peaks and dense forest.

Trekking through Fusha e Runices (Runices Field), filled with alpine wildflowers, evergreen trees, and colorful butterflies, while hearing birdsong and the crunch of rocks underfoot, is a moment made even more incredible by the jagged peaks looming overhead.

View of the dramatic limestone peak of Maje e Arapit, also called the “Matterhorn of the Balkans,” rising above a rocky alpine landscape under a blue sky with scattered clouds along the Peaks of the Balkans trail.
View of Maje e Arapit. Photo via Jessie Festa.

Within a few hours, the stunning Maje e Arapit—also called the “Albanian Matterhorn”—comes into view, an impressive massif that makes me feel so small and so grateful to be here.

A bit of history also adds perspective as we pass a Cold War–era bunker. Stepping inside feels sobering—a reminder of the region’s tense past—and the small window that once watched the border now frames gorgeous valley and mountain views.

A small round Cold War-era concrete bunker built into rocky terrain along the Peaks of the Balkans trail, with dramatic gray limestone mountains rising in the background under a bright blue sky.
Cold War bunker along the Peaks of the Balkans trek. Photo via Jessie Festa.

Continuing on, we climb through two mountain passes, stopping at one for a picnic lunch. On one side, the Matterhorn of Albania stands tall, while on the other, a sweeping panorama of layered, forested mountains stretches endlessly.

After quickly devouring fruit and sandwiches, we begin the descent—900 meters down loose shale and sand under the hot sun. When we reach the forest, the scent of pine grows stronger and the ground firms up. It’s still steep, though, so you’ll definitely want trekking poles for this section.

About 90 minutes later, we reach a café bustling with hikers socializing and enjoying the views. We grab sodas and toast to another epic day on the Peaks of the Balkans.

A hiker sits on a rocky ledge overlooking a vast green valley and rugged mountains in Prokletije National Park on the Peaks of the Balkans trail, with a clear blue sky and scattered white clouds above.
Stopping for a scenic lunch along the trail. Photo via Jessie Festa.

Bonus Theth hiking & sightseeing

Although the Peaks of the Balkans trek technically ends here, I highly recommend spending an extra day in Theth to explore. Some highlights include:

  • The Church of Theth (1892). A simple, beautiful stone church that has become a village icon.
  • Kulla e Ngujimit (Theth Lock-in Tower). A centuries-old tower once used to shelter men involved in blood feuds under the traditional Kanun code.
  • Grunas Waterfall. A 25-meter waterfall and swimming hole, reached by hiking about 45 minutes uphill from Theth.
  • Blue Eye. A short drive brings you to the trailhead for this natural wonder—an intensely blue spring surrounded by lush forest that really does look like a human eye.
A person standing by the vivid turquoise pool of the Blue Eye in Theth, Albania, with a small waterfall flowing into the crystal-clear water surrounded by lush greenery and rocky cliffs.
Swimming at the Blue Eye. Photo via Jessie Festa.

Peaks Of The Balkans Trek Packing List

Along with your toiletries and medications, I highly recommend bringing the following. Note that the clothing recommendations are based on summer travel when it is very hot in the Balkans:

➡ Click here for my full list of hiking essentials.

A smiling hiker with trekking poles climbs a rocky trail surrounded by jagged limestone peaks and green alpine slopes along the Peaks of the Balkans route, under a bright blue sky with scattered clouds.
You’ll want trekking poles when hiking the Peaks of the Balkans. Photo via Jessie Festa.

Peaks Of The Balkans FAQs & Hiking Tips

Now that we’ve gone over logistics, planning, and what the trek itself is like, let’s answer some frequently asked questions:

Q) What is so special about the Peaks of the Balkans?

The Peaks of the Balkans trail is unique because it crosses three countries and lets you experience remote alpine landscapes, traditional villages, and authentic local culture in one unforgettable trek.

Q) Is a permit required for the Peaks of the Balkans trek?

Yes, you need a cross-border permit, which a guide can usually arrange, or you can apply for it directly with local police authorities.

Q) Where does the Peaks of the Balkans trail start?

Most hikers start in Valbona (Albania), Theth (Albania), or Plav (Montenegro), but you can technically begin at any point along the circular route.

Q) Is the Peaks of the Balkans safe to hike alone?

The trail is well-marked and generally safe, but you should be an experienced hiker and carry a map, eSIM, and a satellite communicator in case of emergencies.

Hikers making their way down a narrow dirt trail through green meadows and rolling hills with dramatic mountain ridges in the distance on the Peaks of the Balkans trail.
Gorgeous views while hiking the Peaks of the Balkans trail. Photo via Jessie Festa.

Q) Can you camp on the Peaks of the Balkans trail?

Wild camping is prohibited inside national parks but generally allowed outside of them, though most trekkers stay in village guesthouses. Some guesthouses also allow camping onsite, like Leonardi Guesthouse in Doberdol.

Q) What currency is used while hiking the Peaks of the Balkans?

Albania uses the Albanian Lek and accepts Euros, while Kosovo and Montenegro use the Euro. To keep things simple, you can use Euros throughout the entire trek.

Q) Should you tip your Peaks of the Balkans guide?

While not mandatory, it is customary to tip your guide. For the 10-day trek, each person in our group tipped about 100€ (so 10€ per person, per day).

Have you hiked the Peaks of the Balkans trail?